Art Deco Hosiery (1920s-1930s)
The Art Deco period revolutionized hosiery. Rising hemlines finally made women's legs visible, turning stockings from hidden necessity to fashion statement. The era's bold geometric designs and glamorous aesthetic transformed legwear forever.
The Hemline Revolution
For centuries, women's legs were hidden beneath floor-length skirts. Then came the 1920s:
- 1920: Hemlines at ankle
- 1925: Hemlines at calf
- 1926-28: Hemlines at knee—revolutionary!
Suddenly, stockings were visible fashion items. Quality, color, and design mattered.
The Flapper and Her Stockings
The flapper girl symbolized the era's liberated woman, and her hosiery made a statement:
- Flesh-colored silk (scandalously nude-looking)
- Sheer enough to show leg shape
- Rolled garters showing at knee hem
- Decorative clocking at ankles
- Sometimes deliberately wrinkled for effect
Art Deco Design Elements
Art Deco's distinctive aesthetic appeared in hosiery design:
Geometric Patterns
- Chevrons and zigzags
- Stylized sunbursts
- Angular florals
- Stepped designs
Clocking Designs
Ankle decorations reached their artistic peak:
- Egyptian motifs (Tutankhamun influence)
- Geometric abstractions
- Elaborate embroidery
- Contrasting colors
Colors
- Flesh tones: Beige, nude, suntan
- Neutrals: Gunmetal, pearl gray
- Bold: Black, white, brown
- Pastels: For formal occasions
Materials and Technology
Silk Dominance
Silk remained the premium material, but was becoming more accessible:
- Japanese silk imports increased
- Better manufacturing reduced costs
- Middle class could afford silk stockings
- Still aspirational for working class
Rayon Introduction
Artificial silk (rayon) emerged as an affordable alternative:
- Called "art silk" or "fibre silk"
- Cheaper than real silk
- Less durable
- Lost luster when wet
- Bridge between silk and cotton
Fashion Influences
Hollywood Glamour
Silent film and early talkies showcased beautiful legs:
- Close-ups of stocking-clad ankles
- Dance numbers featuring legs
- Stars set fashion trends
- Movie magazines spread styles
Dance Craze Impact
The Charleston and other dances required:
- Secure garter attachment
- Durable construction
- Flexibility for movement
- Attractive appearance while dancing
The Great Depression Effect
The 1929 crash changed hosiery consumption:
- Silk became luxury again
- Rayon sales increased
- Mending and darning revived
- Hemlines lowered (less stocking visible)
- More conservative styles emerged
Leading Brands
- Holeproof: Promise of durability
- Phoenix: Quality silk
- Kayser: Innovation leader
- Van Raalte: Fashion-forward
Legacy
The Art Deco era established:
- Hosiery as visible fashion
- Importance of leg appearance
- Design as selling point
- Foundation for nylon revolution