Victorian Era Hosiery (1837-1901)

The Victorian era transformed hosiery from a simple necessity into a complex symbol of modesty, class, and eventually, subtle rebellion. Though legs were hidden beneath long skirts, stockings were an essential part of every woman's wardrobe.

Materials & Construction

Fabrics

• Cotton: Most common for everyday wear
• Wool: Winter warmth
• Silk: Luxury for wealthy women
• Lisle: Fine cotton thread, smooth finish

Construction Methods

All stockings were knitted, either:

• Hand-knitted: At home or by professionals
• Machine-knitted: Increasing after 1850s
• Frame-knitted: Earliest machine method

Colors & Patterns

Early Victorian (1837-1860)

• White for formal/bridal
• Black for everyday
• Limited colors available
• Plain stockings dominant

Mid-Victorian (1860-1880)

• Aniline dyes expand colors
• Stripes become fashionable
• Embroidered details emerge
• Colored stockings for sport

Late Victorian (1880-1901)

• Black most fashionable
• Colors for specific occasions
• Patterns and clocking popular
• Openwork designs appear

Garters & Suspenders

How Stockings Stayed Up

• Garters: Elastic or ribbon tied above/below knee
• Suspender belts: Appeared late Victorian era
• Combination garments: Corsets with stocking attachments

Health Concerns

Tight garters caused circulation problems. By the 1880s, reformers advocated for suspender belts as healthier alternatives.

Class Distinctions

Upper Class

• Silk stockings for special occasions
• Multiple pairs owned
• Hand-embroidered details
• Stockings changed frequently

Middle Class

• Cotton lisle for everyday
• Silk for best occasions
• Careful mending and darning
• Few pairs owned

Working Class

• Plain cotton or wool
• Hand-knitted at home often
• Heavily darned and reused
• Sometimes no stockings worn

Modesty & Scandal

The Hidden Leg

Victorian propriety demanded covered legs:

• Skirts to floor length
• Even table legs sometimes "dressed"
• Glimpse of stocking was scandalous
• Ankles considered erotic

Secret Rebellion

Some women expressed themselves through stockings:

• Bright colors under dark skirts
• Elaborate embroidery hidden from view
• Personal expression in private

Stocking Care

Preservation

Stockings were valuable and carefully maintained:

• Hand washing in cold water
• Careful drying away from heat
• Constant darning and repair
• Turning heels when worn through

Passing Down

Quality stockings were inherited or gifted, sometimes lasting generations with proper care.

Athletic Stockings

As women began participating in sports:

• Cycling: Introduced shorter skirts, visible stockings
• Tennis: White stockings standard
• Sea bathing: Special bathing stockings

Manufacturing Advances

Industrial Revolution Impact

• Circular knitting machines (1816)
• Mass production lowers prices
• More standardized sizing
• Ready-made stockings available