Medieval Legwear History (500-1500 AD)

The term "hosiery" descends from the medieval "hose"—a generic term for leg coverings. During the Middle Ages, legwear evolved from simple wrapped cloth to fitted, fashionable garments.

Early Medieval Period (500-1000 AD)

Simple Beginnings

• Leg wrappings of cloth or leather
• Cross-gartered with strips of fabric
• Similar styles across Europe
• Function over fashion

Materials

• Wool (most common)
• Linen (warmer climates)
• Leather (for protection)
• Animal skins

High Medieval Period (1000-1300 AD)

Evolution of Hose

Leg coverings became more fitted:

• Cut from woven cloth on bias
• Sewn to follow leg shape
• Tied to braies (undergarments)
• Separate legs, not joined

Men's Hose

Men's legwear was more visible:

• Showed below short tunics
• Bright colors for nobility
• Status symbol
• Parti-colored (two different colors) fashionable

Women's Hose

Women's leg coverings were hidden:

• Long dresses covered legs
• Simple, practical styles
• Usually wool or linen
• Held up by garters below knee

Late Medieval Period (1300-1500 AD)

Increasing Sophistication

• Knitting introduced to Europe
• First knitted stockings appear
• Spain leads in knitting technology
• Fitted stockings become possible

Joined Hose

By 1400s, men's hose became joined:

• Two legs connected at waist
• Precursor to tights
• Required a codpiece
• Very fitted silhouette

Social Significance

Class Distinctions

• Nobility: Silk, fine wool, bright colors
• Merchants: Quality wool, muted colors
• Peasants: Coarse wool, undyed

Sumptuary Laws

Laws restricted clothing by class:

• Only nobles could wear certain colors
• Silk restricted to upper classes
• Length regulations existed
• Enforced social hierarchy

Production Methods

Cloth Hose

1. Woven fabric cut on bias (diagonal)
2. Bias cut allows stretch
3. Pieces sewn together
4. Shaped to leg by seams

Knitted Hose

Knitting advantages:

• Natural stretch in fabric
• Better fit to leg
• More durable
• Required less fabric

Regional Variations

Northern Europe

• Heavier wool for warmth
• Cross-gartering popular
• Leg wraps persisted longer

Southern Europe

• Lighter materials
• Fitted styles adopted earlier
• Italy and Spain led fashion
• Knitting developed here first

The Knitting Revolution

Knitting transformed hosiery:

• 13th century: Knitting arrives from Middle East
• 14th century: Spreads through Spain
• 15th century: Knitting guilds form
• 16th century: Knitting machine invented (1589)

Care & Maintenance

• Rarely washed (damaged fibers)
• Aired and brushed
• Constantly repaired
• Valuable—listed in wills