Elizabethan Hosiery
The Elizabethan era (1558-1603) was a pivotal period in hosiery history. Queen Elizabeth I's love of fine stockings, combined with the invention of the knitting machine, transformed legwear from utilitarian covering to fashion statement.
Queen Elizabeth I and Silk Stockings
In 1561, Queen Elizabeth I received her first pair of knitted silk stockings as a gift. Her reported reaction changed fashion history:
"I like silk stockings so well, because they are pleasant, fine and delicate, that henceforth I will wear no more cloth stockings."
The Queen's endorsement made silk stockings the ultimate status symbol of the era.
Before Knitting: Cloth Hose
Prior to knitted stockings, hose were:
- Cut from woven cloth
- Sewn to shape
- No stretch or elasticity
- Often baggy or ill-fitting
- Required frequent adjustment
Knitted stockings were revolutionary—they conformed to the leg and stayed in place.
The Knitting Frame Invention
In 1589, Reverend William Lee of Nottinghamshire invented the stocking frame—the first knitting machine. Legend says he was motivated to free his wife from endless hand-knitting.
Queen Elizabeth refused to grant Lee a patent, reportedly concerned about:
- Putting hand-knitters out of work
- The coarseness of early machine knitting
- Protecting established guilds
Lee eventually took his invention to France, where it flourished.
Hosiery as Status Symbol
The Aristocracy
- Silk stockings imported from Spain and Italy
- Elaborate embroidery and clocking
- Bright colors: scarlet, purple, blue
- Gold and silver thread details
- Cost equivalent to months of worker wages
The Middle Class
- Wool knitted stockings
- Simpler designs
- More practical colors
- Growing aspirations for silk
Working Class
- Coarse wool or cloth hose
- Primarily functional
- Often homemade
Men's Hosiery Dominance
In the Elizabethan era, men's hosiery was more prominent than women's because:
- Men's fashions showed legs (doublet and hose)
- Women's floor-length gowns concealed legs
- Male leg shape was considered attractive
- Calves were padded for better appearance
Women's hosiery fashion would wait until hemlines rose centuries later.
Colors and Decorations
Popular Colors
- White: Purity, worn by ladies
- Black: Spanish influence, formal
- Red/Scarlet: Wealth and status
- Yellow: Fashionable but expensive dye
Clocking
Embroidered designs at the ankle began as reinforcement for weak points in knitting. They quickly became decorative status markers.
Production Centers
- Spain: Finest silk stockings
- Italy: Quality silk production
- England: Growing wool industry, later framework knitting
- France: Adopted Lee's machine
Legacy
The Elizabethan era established:
- Hosiery as fashion item, not just necessity
- Machine knitting technology
- Class distinctions through legwear
- Foundation for hosiery industry